Bell Pepper Production in the Philippines

Bell pepper, also known as sweet pepper (Capsicum annuum L.), belongs to the solanaceous family and can be grown throughout the year.

It is a rich source of vitamin C and iron and is commonly served fresh or cooked with vegetables, fish, and meat. Bell peppers can also be processed into pickles. They come in several colors: green, yellow, orange, violet, and brown. Locally, they are known as “sweet pepper,” “atsal,” “kampana,” or “lara.”

A green bell pepper is highly nutritious, with a glossy exterior and a mild, tangy flavor. Unlike chili peppers, bell peppers contain no capsaicin, making them non-spicy. They are packed with vitamins A and C, potassium, and other essential nutrients.

In the Philippines, organic bell pepper production remains limited. The major producing regions are:

• Cordillera Administrative Region (CAR) – 45%
• Northern Mindanao – 17%
• Ilocos Region – 13%

These areas have cooler climates ideal for bell pepper cultivation. In lowland areas, planting is best from October to December, while mid- and high-elevation areas can grow bell pepper year-round.

Recommended Varieties

Nutrition Facts

Fresh, raw bell pepper is composed of over 90% water. The remaining portion contains small amounts of protein, carbohydrates, and fats.

Source: USDA Food Composition Databases

Environmental Requirements

Climatic Requirements

Sweet pepper thrives in cool weather for best fruit quality. In low elevations, planting is ideal from October to December. In mid- and high-elevation areas, it can be grown year-round.

Soil Requirements

Bell pepper grows well in soils with a pH of 5.5 to 6.5. Sandy loam soil is ideal. The optimal temperature range is 25–32°C.

Preparing Bell Pepper Seeds

One hectare requires 100–200 g of seeds. Sow seeds in germination boxes with sterilized media composed of:

• 1 part compost
• 1 part burned rice hull
• 1 part coir dust

Sow at a depth of 0.5 cm. Use the same media for seedling trays. To prevent damping-off, lightly apply fungicide over the media. Water thoroughly for the first three days.

Once seeds germinate, regulate watering. Harden seedlings one week before transplanting by gradually reducing water until temporary wilting occurs. Seedlings aged 3–4 weeks are ready for transplanting.

Preparing Land for Planting

Prepare the field by plowing and harrowing 2–3 times until the soil is well pulverized.

• Small areas: Create plots 0.75–1 meter wide for two-row planting.
• Large areas: Set furrows 0.6–0.75 meters apart for single-row planting.
• Wet season: Use raised beds (20–30 cm high, 1 meter wide).

Crop Establishment

Transplanting

Apply 10 g of complete fertilizer (16-16-16) per hole. Add 250 g of compost per hole to improve soil texture and fertility.

Transplant during cool weather or late afternoon to avoid seedling shock. Use a spacing of 0.3–0.5 meters between hills.

Mulching

Mulching helps control weeds and promotes better growth. Use rice hull, rice straw, or plastic mulch.

For plastic mulch:

• Prepare 1-meter-wide beds
• Incorporate manure and fertilizer
• Spread mulch and cover edges with soil
• Make holes 0.5 m × 0.5 m apart

Nutrient Management

Apply fertilizers as follows:

• 10 days after transplanting: 10 g/hill of 2 parts ammonium sulfate + 1 part muriate of potash
• 30 days after transplanting: 10 g/hill of 1 part urea + 1 part muriate of potash
• 50 days after transplanting: Repeat the above application

Cultivate between rows when weeds begin to emerge. Perform 3–4 cycles of alternate off-barring and hilling-up for maximum yield.

Water Management

Irrigate every 7–10 days. Adequate water is crucial during early vegetative growth, flowering, and fruit setting.

Common Pests and Diseases

Thrips (Thrips tabaci)

Damage: Sucks sap from leaves, causing browning and drying near the mid-vein.

Management: Chemical control is most effective.

Aphids (Aphis gossypii)

Damage: Causes leaf distortion, stunting, and sticky mold growth.

Management: Use botanical pesticides such as neem extract.

Broad Mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus)

Damage: Leaves curl downward; young leaves become narrow and cupped.

Management: Botanical sprays (neem, madre de cacao extract).

Tomato Fruit Worm

Damage: Boreholes at fruit base; internal decay and frass.

Management: Use Methomyl or mimic-type insecticides.

Bacterial Wilt

Damage: Wilting of young leaves; water-soaked roots and stems.

Management: Use healthy seedlings; remove and burn infected plants.

Anthracnose

Damage: Sunken lesions on mature fruits; fungal rings.

Management: Clean seeds, rotate crops, apply Mancozeb or Benomyl.

Cercospora Leaf Spot

Damage: Circular brown spots with gray centers; leaf drop.

Management: Collect and burn infected leaves and stems.

Harvest Management

Harvest fruits when they turn deep green and slightly dull, or when red varieties begin to color. This typically occurs 80–90 days after planting.

Postharvest Handling

Sort fruits according to market standards and remove damaged ones. Fresh bell peppers can be stored for up to 5 weeks at 4°C and 95% humidity.